Surf Is Where You Find It

Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2015-04-17 with total page 571 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2021-05-19 with total page 416 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward." Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport withSurf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water. From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has traveled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most. Originally published in 2008,Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by, and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today. Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos. Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today -- surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way. Includes forewords by Rob Machado andThe Surfer's Journal found Steve Pezman.

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 276 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now. From the Trade Paperback edition.

Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna

Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-09-06 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope." —Jared Diamond, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Guns, Germs, and Steel In this 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

Download or read book Cocaine + Surfing written by Chas Smith and published by Rare Bird Books, a Vireo Book. This book was released on 2018-06-12 with total page 256 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and 'Big Wednesday,' was one of mild outlaws - tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water... Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion... 'Cocaine + Surfing' peels the curtains back on a hopped-up, sometimes sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders."--Inside jacket flap.