Legends Of Surfing

Download or read book Legends of Surfing written by Duke Boyd and published by MVP Books. This book was released on 2009-11-07 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)

Download or read book Legends of the Sandbar written by Christopher Bickford and published by . This book was released on 2017-06-01 with total page 250 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A photographic and textual homage to the surfing community of the Outer Banks of North Carolina, written and photographed by Christopher Bickford. Mixes in-water photography with landscape and lifestyle photographs, and includes a variety of stories on the history, culture, and experience of the tight-knit community of waterlogged surf-heroes that make there homes on this thin strip of sand dangling on the edge of the continental shelf.

Download or read book Surfing Florida written by Paul Aho and published by . This book was released on 2014 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book offers a lively and well-researched visual history of Florida surfing--its origins, its people and personalities, its innovations, its deep influence on the sport's international reach.

Download or read book Making Mavericks written by Frosty Hesson and published by Skyhorse. This book was released on 2012-10-26 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship. Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were—surf legends, and the subject of the upcoming film Chasing Mavericks. In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Live like Jay.” Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.

Download or read book Surfing Legends Alphabet written by Beck Feiner and published by . This book was released on 2020-03-12 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From Duke Kahanamoku to Kelly Slater, Lisa Andersen to Margo Oberg, Surfing Legends Alphabet presents the A to Z of the greatest of greats who have ever dared to tame the angry sea. Cutely illustrated and passionately written, Surf Legends Alphabet is sure to make a splash with any young, or not so young, lover of the greatest water sport known to woman and man.

Download or read book San Onofre written by David F. MKatuszak and published by . This book was released on 2018-09-02 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: San Onofre: Memories of a Legendary Surfing Beach is a landmark achievement in the study of surfing history and culture from its origins in Polynesia, Peru, and Africa, to the role that San Onofre played in molding California surf culture.San Onofre is the story of the California surfing culture as seen through the eyes of the surfers at San Onofre Surf Beach. Pioneer surfers tell their own story of the Golden Age of Surfing and illustrate their tales with never-before-seen vintage photographs from their own family albums. Their stories offer a priceless collection of primary source data for future studies of the sport.

Download or read book The Big Drop written by John Long and published by Falcon Guides. This book was released on 1999 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A classic collection of big wave surfing stories that heralded a new era in surfing literature--32 tantalizing and terrifying true tales from the sport's pioneers